<## howto.hts - "How-To" Tutorial system for Miva ##> <## graphic for forum column ##> Mark Sweeney - Creating Digital Paintings

Creating Digital Paintings
by Mark Sweeney


This isn't so much a "How To..." as it is a "How I Do..." If you have any opinions or suggestions, feel free to e.mail them to me.

This won't teach you how to paint, you have to learn by practice. It's just meant to give you a step-by-step process of digital painting.

This also assumes you know how to use Adobe Photoshop.


MATERIALS:
REQUIRED:

Computer
Photoshop 3.0
Wacom Tablet
RECOMMENDED:
Wacom Tablet
COMPUTER USED:
Macintosh Centris 650
25 mHz / 24 megabytes of ram


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Step 1
I started by sketching a rough gesture of the character in Non-Repro blue, which I then went over it with a regular 2B pencil.

Next step was scanning in this sketch.

I scanned it in in Greyscale at approx. 6x9 inches, at 300 dpi. After adjusting the levels and curves I copied the Black channel to another alpha channel and renamed it Blueline. Then I set the color for the Channel to Non-Repro Blue.




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Step 2
I began redrawing and tightening up the original sketch in the Black Channel, with the Blueline Channel eye icon clicked on (this lets me see the Blueline channel over top of the Black channel I'm drawing on.)




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Step 3

You can see the final line art, finished on the computer. I delete the extra channel (Blueline), & duplicated the Black Channel. Next I selected all in the Black channel and deleted it to white. I converted the file to RGB, and saved this with the tag HR - High Resolution.

I used Image Size to change the resolution to 150 DPI while keeping the dimensions the same (6x9 inches), and saved this with the tag LR (Low Resolution). This allows me to work faster, and get a fair amount of detail in.

When I've painted it as far as I can go, I will rez it back up to 300 DPI, copy and paste it back into the High Resolution version, and add more detail from there.




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Step 4

I painted in a colorful, smoky background on one layer, and created the ground texture in another.




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Step 5

Moving the smoky background layer above the ground art, I then used the Eraser Tool, set to Airbrush in the Options Palette, to slowly delete the smoke to let the ground show through.

I also had the Black Alpha Channel (containing the line art) eye icon clicked so I could see where Hellspont was standing. This way I don't uncover more ground than I need.

Once I got it the way I wanted, I merged the two background layers together into one (saves time redrawing, and memory this way).

I then created two new layers, one for the main part of the body, and one for the head and fire effect of Hellspont's skull.




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Step 6

Here I begin by filling selections with flat colors. Looks rather gross to start, doesn't it?

I do the main body on a separate layer, for two reasons.

I can make global changes to the character or background to enhance mood or lighting without having one layer affect the other (though if I paint properly and use color well, I won't have to).

The other reason is I can turn on Preserve Transparency in the Layers Palette. If you're not familiar with this, what Preserve Transparency does is allow you to change the colors of pixels on a layer that has color in it in the first place. If an area is transparent, you can't add color to it, or change it. If an area has color you can paint over only the colored parts. It's like having an automatic selection without using memory for an alpha channel with a saved selection.




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Step 7

Keep in mind that I'm using a pressure sensitive pen & graphics tablet, with photoshop tools set with Opacity on.

I start adding highlights, shadows and textures, using the airbrush to roughly block in large areas. But, for the bulk of the painting, I use mainly the pencil tool (Anyone Surprised??!!)




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Step 8
Why do I use the pencil so much? I work on a Quadra 660 AV. My computer's speed is 25 Mh. If I use any large brushes in airbrush or paintbrush mode, the brushwork ends up trailing behind, or catching up to the cursor. This is a real pain, and I'm constantly waiting for the computer to catch up to what I'm doing.

However, with the pencil, I've never had to wait for the "brushwork" to catch up to the cursor. I started using the pencil as a means of working faster with what I have, but now I find I like it better than the airbrush.

If I use the pencil with just a little bit of pressure, I get a soft transition in color, like the light blue highlight on the cape (enlarged inset).

With heavier pressure, I get a harder edge (the yellow-orange highlight in the inset).

If I turn the size button in the pencil options on, the harder I press, the larger the brush gets and the more "paint" it puts down. This mimics a real brush and paint. Even if I have to go over an area a few times, the hard edge of the pencil just adds more texture.

Of course, if I don't want texture, I can either go over it with the Blur Tool, Smudge Tool, or use the airbrush to smooth it out.

This way I don't have to continually make selections and I'm not limited to painting by using 'cuts' to get texture and detail.




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Step 9

Now I start building up the muscles using light and shadow, highlights and shading. I use the blueline sketch which I've saved in an alpha channel as a reference for muscles etc, and again just using the pencil tool, I try to light and model the figure realistically and dramatically.




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Step 10

I don't like to spend too much time in one spot or area. I move to other parts of the legs, or the arms and chest, etc., trying to build up the figure evenly. As you can see in this closeup, the figure is really starting to take shape and become more three-dimensional. The other thing I'm trying to do is get the textures right, as Hellspont's chest is a golden metallic armor, while the rest of his garb I'm trying to paint with a leather look.




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Step 11

Well, I just opended up the original WildC.A.T.S. Trade Paperback, and found out I've screwed up big time. I had the colors backwards for the arms and legs. After cursing a long blue streak, I just selected the arms, and using the Hue/Saturation command, with the Colorize Button turned on, I adjusted the blue color over to the proper green color. Then I selected the legs, and used the Hue/Saturation command with the Colorize option on, to change the color to what it was supposed to be.

Next, I repainted new, colored highlights on the arms and legs, and corrected the anatomy on the shoulders.

This screw-up is another reason I work on layers. It makes it easy to make global color changes like this without re-painting the whole thing. Of course, if I'd kept the book open by my computer as a reference, I wouldn't have made this mistake.

However, I don't like looking at other people's work when I'm doing artwork. You can be influenced by their style, or worse, if you're using another artist's work as a reference, end up copying or using their mistakes. As you can see above, I can make mistakes on my own, without adding someone else's into the mix.




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Step 12
Well, now I've added the flames to the head, on a separate layer from the body and It makes the painting really come to life. Some of the highlights and shading starts to make sense now that you can see the source for some of the lighting. Originally I was going to going to keep Hellspont's skull solid black as they have in the comic books, but seeing the flames on and around the skull like this has changed my mind, and I'm going to leave as is. This painting is close to finished, but there's still a lot of work to do on the wrists, hands, knees, abdomen, and Hellspont's shadow on the ground.



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Step 13

Here I've now added in the frontal tubes, their segmented texture, and the shadows they cast, along with the smaller flame on the chest. You can also see where I repainted part of the cape (over the shoulder on your left) so the tube will go under the cape as it's supposed to.




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Step 14

And now the last few parts - the tiger striping on the arms, the boots, segmented texture on the chest, and the orb of power, from the first mini-series.




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Step 15

After flattening the entire file, I made a new layer set to screen mode, and combined two filters (lens flare and a KPT flare). I adjusted the colors and intensity of the light effect, then adjusted the opacity of the lens flare layer to what I wanted. After flattening the Image again, I rezed it up to 300 dpi, touched up a few areas, and used KPT Sharpen Intensity. Voila, its finished! What do you think?

Click Here to See
Full Sized Version



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Final Image



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Introduction | Step 1 | Step 2 | Step 3 | Step 4 | Step 5 | Step 6 | Step 7

Step 8 | Step 9 | Step 10 | Step 11 | Step 12 | Step 13 | Step 14 | Step 15